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MBA: As the two-time NORBA champ, you became the sport’s first celebrity rider. There were only two classes, Expert and Novice, so I was first Novice and won a pair of Ukai gold alloy rims. I was wearing Levis, a T-shirt and no helmet, and finished 13th overall.
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When I was 17 years old, I entered a race in 1983 called Zero’s Notch, which was the Pine Mountain loop above Fairfax that ended at the bottom of the Repack downhill course. Next came a Tuf Neck stem and some motorcycle handlebars. Right off the bat, the huge Messenger saddle was replaced with a Brooks B17 and one of those fluted BMX seatposts. Piece by piece, I began replacing the parts. Sometime around 1981, that led to buying a Schwinn Spitfire 5 from Mike’s Bikes in San Rafael, California, down the road from where I grew up in Fairfax. Joe Murray: I started out riding an old ’50s Rollfast cruiser on the dirt roads in Marin. MBA: When did you get started riding and racing mountain bikes? Joe celebrates with fellow two-time NORBA National Champion Jacquie Phelan. But, it was his follow-up NORBA National titles in 1984 and ’85 that earned him the credibility that led to steady employment in the industry.įor over two decades, as a member of Shimano’s secretive “Skunk” team of R&D riders, Joe Murray has played a key role in developing a host of components for modern mountain bikers. It was his talent that earned him a wealth of victories in numerous back-in-the-day classics, such as the Rockhopper (five wins) and the Whiskeytown downhill (three wins). Like the two Hall of Fame racers who would eventually follow in his wheel tracks, Joe, too, was a quiet, unassuming guy who was simply capable of outriding his competitors. Then slide on a cable end cap and crimp it in place.Before Ned Overend, John Tomac or any other pioneer mountain bike racer whom the sport has popularized as the earliest superstar, there was Joe Murray. If necessary, trim the cable so there is about 2 inches remaining. Now you’ll need to adjust the rear derailleur as shown in previous tutorials. Then loosen the cable, pull it tight again and re-tighten it. Then find a bare stretch of cable and give it a good pull to make sure the cable is seated and has no slack. Thread the shift cable back into the derailleur, pull it tight and tighten the anchor bolt so the cable flattens. Now preset the high-limit (H) screw so the upper jockey wheel is roughly in line with the smallest sprocket when viewed from behind.
PIN WHEELS BY MURRAY BIKE HOW TO
Search the site for tutorials on how to use a chain tool or a quick release chain link. If you have removed the chain, re-route the chain through the jockey wheels and reconnect it. If your chain is still on the bike, undo the bottom jockey wheel and thread the chain over the top pulley. Then thread it part way into the derailleur hanger, and rotate it clockwise to make sure the b-screw or tab is sitting behind the flat on the back of the hanger. Rear Derailleur Installationīefore installing the new rear derailleur, apply some waterproof grease to the mounting bolt. Now you can unthread the derailleur’s mounting bolt all the way counter clockwise to remove the derailleur. If you are removing the chain, disconnect a link and pull the chain through the jockey wheels. Some chains have a special connector pin that need replacing if removed, so if you don’t need to remove the chain for cleaning or replacement you can simply remove the lower jockey wheel and rotate the cage plate to release the chain. Now you’ll need to remove the chain from the derailleur. Then pull off the shift cable’s end cap and loosen the cable pinch bolt. The first step is to shift your chain onto the smallest rear sprocket. The last thing you’ll need is a phillips (+) screwdriver for adjusting the derailleur’s limit screws.
PIN WHEELS BY MURRAY BIKE INSTALL
You’ll also need wire cutters and a 9 or 10mm metric open end wrench, or a 5 or 6mm hex key to remove and install the rear shift cable. If you are removing the chain you may need a chain tool depending on your type of chain. Toolsįor this job you’ll need a 5mm hex key for the derailleur’s mounting bolt, and a 2.5mm or 3mm hex key for the jockey wheels if you will not be removing the chain to clean or replace it. In this tutorial we’ll learn how to replace a standard bolt-on rear derailleur.